Shizuoka Izakaya: Shibata

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For once, I did not foot the bill (although I tried hard) as I was invited by Mr. Sakurai, an old friend of mine and the sire of a favourite student of mine. Therefore I must admit I do not have a clue to how much the bill amounted to, although the place is fairly reasonable.
Shibata was opened 20 years ago and has already gone through a total renewal in 2003.
It is extremely popular and busy. Reservations are a must on week-ends!
Mr. Sakurai had ordered a set menu (probably the most expensive one, judging from the quality and quantity!). We had only the drinks to worry about!

Like any worthy Izakaya in Shizuoka, Shibata features a good number of Shizuoka Jizake on its menu: Isojiman (Yaizu City), Kokkou (Fukuroi City), Shidaizumi (Fujieda City), Suginishiki (Sugii Brewery/Fujieda City), Kikuyoi (Aoshima Brewery/Fujieda City), Shosetsu (Kansawagawa Brewery,Yui Cho), Kaiun (Doi Brewery/Kakegawa City)!
Before I go through all the morsels I’d better hoot for Rowena, Gaijin Tonic, Foodhoe and Simaldeff to prepare themselves (and call their friends, LOL)!

The “snack” coming with first drinks was a proof of the quality of the establishment: boiled bamboo shoot, grilled clam, shellfish in its shell and broad beans.

But the enormous sashimi plate (for three persons) could have been enough with adequate drinks:
Sazae/Turbo shells in its shell and inides in a small plate. Maguro Chutoro/Tuna Fatty part (right). Awabi/Abalone (small on left). Bottom right, raw Sakuraebi/Sakura Shrimps from Yui Cho and Shirasu/Sardine Whiting from Mochimune. Centre, Uni/Sea Urchin in a cup. Centre left, Shime saba/pickled Mackerel. Bottom left, Aori Ika/Aori Squid and Suzuki/Seabass.

But then, dishes came down at speed (if I had a single criticism to vent, it would be that dishes come too fast!):
Ise Ebi to Kani Gusoku Ni/Spiny Lobster and crab legs in Japanese-style sweetand sour sauce. The lobster is Australian and the crab Russian, but very tasty!

Ooba no Tsutsumi mushi/Clam steamed inside a bamboo leaf. reminiscent of Vietnamese food. Both deicate and fulfilling!

Yuba Chakin

Fish and shellfish in white sauce baked inside yuba/”toofu skin”. A dish that would be appreciated anywhere as you could easily make a vegetarian version! A shame you have to open it!

The last dish before the dessert (sorry I got carried away and forgot to take a pic of the latter!) was a typical Japanese fare: Sawara no kidomeyaki/Large Mackerel variety grilled topped with garnish made with Japanese herbs and spices. and Nasu no Denraku/Egg-plant or Auubergine grilled topped with a sweet miso sauce.

Holy Macaroni! Getting up proved an almost exhausting excersise!

Shibata
420-0034 Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Tokiwa-cho, 2-5-8
Tel.: 054-251-2405
Business hours: 17:00~23:00
Closed on Sundays

Shizuoka Sake Tasting 18-8: Hamamatsu-Tenjingura Brewery

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Hamamatsu-Tenjingura Brewery in Hamamatsu City have always been noticed for a certain originality bordering on the maverick side. I’m ceratinly not one to complain!
I had the chance to discover this very limited editio of a brew made from a mixture of old sake/koshu made ten years ago and sake made this year. It is advertised a ” a sake as easy to drink as umeshu”!

Hamamatsu-Tenjingura Brewery: Mu-Jun
Alcohol: 15.2 degrees
Rice millage: koji kome/fermentation rice-Yamadanishiki, 40%. kake kome/rice-Gohyakumangoku, 60%
Yeast: No 9
Acidity: 1.8
Amino acids: 2.2
Contents: 500 ml
Limited edition: 180 bottles

Clarity: very clear

Colour: golden

Aroma: Fruity, light: apricot, peach, pineapple.

Body: Velvety

Taste: Sweet but not overpowering. Tastes like a sweet white port.
Complex with a lot of fruits: Mikan, apricot, peach.
Short tail. Honey and coffee beans coming out later.
Some welcome acidity and dryness appear later with more mikan.

Overall: A rarity in Shizuoka: a dessert sake! Perfect when drunk slightly chilled.
Drinks well with food whether salted or sweet.
Great with cheese and choclate!

Shizuoka Sake Tasting 8/5: Sogatsuru-Hagi no Kura Brewery

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Sogatsuru-Hagi no Kura Brewery has accomplished a fully-fledged return since their transformation 4 years ago from a moribond Sogatsuru Brewery for the pleasure of all sake lovers.
I decided to taste their Kazutoyo brand name again this year when I found it in Kakegawa JR Station.

Sogatsuru-Hagi no Kura Brewery: Kazutoyo-Kakegawajo Ginjo
Rice milled down to 55%
Alcohol: 15~16 degrees
Bottled (300 ml): November 2007

Clarity: Very clear

Colour: Almost transparent

Aroma: Fruity and sweetish: Melon, bananas

Body: Velvety

Taste: Short tail. Nice alcohol. Very fruity: melon, bananas.
Complex and elegant. Turns a bit drier with food with more almonds and apricots.
Turns sweeter again away from food with a hint of bitter chocolate.

Overall: Drinks well with food. Easy on the palate.
Deserves to be drunk with great food. Very “Shizuoka-style”.
Original balance between sweetnes and dryness.

Shizuoka Sake Tasting 19-3: Kokkou Brewery

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Brews from Kokkou Brewery in Fukuroi City are not always easy to find, although this particular brewery is very important in Shizuoka Prefecture as it saw the birth and first use of the Shizuoka Yeasts which revolutionized the sake of this Prefecture some 30 years ago!

Kokkou Brewery: Tokubetsu Honjozo

Alcohol: 15~16 degrees
Bottled: December 2007

Clarity: Very clear

Colour: Light Golden Tinge

Aroma: Fruity: Nectarine, vanilla

Body: Fluid

Taste: Fruity and dry. Short tail. Melon, Nectarine.
Almonds appear later.
Turns drier with food.
Welcome acidity and alcohol backed up by more melon.

Overall: A sake best suited for food.
Varies very little with food. Very enjoyable

International Shizuoka Sake Lovers Tasting (1)

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The “International Shizuoka Sake Lovers” held their first Tasting Session organized in Hamamatsu City on April 30 the 30th by Matthew Ryan and Robert-Gilles Martineau.
We decide to call ourselves such to unify all the budding groups in Hamamatsu, Shizuoka, Kakegawa and other cities for the sake (sorry for the pun!) of convenience. We also opted to concentrate on a single different Bewery each time to enable our friends to learn all about the Shizuoka Breweries in a more efficient manner.

This first session introduced brews by Hamamatsu-Tenjingura Brewery in Hamamatsu City.

Name: Hamamatsu-Tenjingura Brewery: Shusseijo Tokubetsu Junmai

Rice: Yamada Nishiki 100%
Rice milled down to 60%
Alcohol: 15~16 degrees
Yeast: Shizuoka Yeast
Bottled: March 2008
Clarity: Very clear
Colour: Almost transparent
Aroma: Alcohol/Almonds/Light/Floral.
Body: Velvety
Taste: Short tail, but warming/Fruity: almonds/Almost sweet. Turns sweeter with food.

Overall: Solid sake. Goes well with any food.

Name: Hamamatsu-Tenjingura Brewery: Junmai Ginjo

Rice milled down to 50%
Alcohol: 15=16 degrees
Botteld: March 2008

Clarity: Very clear
Colour: Almost transparent
Aroma: Almonds/Floral/Light
Body: Velvety
Taste: Almonds/Light junmai tingle/Turns sweeter and solid with food. Shortish tail.

Comments: A sake designed for food. Adapts itself to any food. Seems to be a common character from this brewery

Name: Hamamatsu-Tenjingura Brewery: Shusseijo Ginjo Nama

Rice milled down to 50%
Alcohol: 15~16 degrees
Bottled: April 2008

Clarity: Very clear
Colour: Light golden tinge
Aroma: Almonds/Nama characteristics
Body: Velvety
Taste: Alcohol/Almonds, nuts, melon, bananas/Light tingle. Turns sweeter with food.

Overall: Sold sake. Goes down so well with food. Will actually improve with food!

Name: Hamamatsu-Tenjingura Brewery: Junmai Ginjo Muroka (Unfifiltered) Nama Genshu/As it comes out!

Rice: Yamada Nishiki (Hyogo Prefecture)
Rice milled dwon to 50%
Alcohol: 18~19 degrees
Bottled: 2008

Clarity: Very clear
Colour: Almost transparent
Aroma: Alcohol/Fruity, melon/Dry/”Comes from a distance”
Body: Velvety
Taste: Complex, fruity, pineapple. Spreads further from a short tail.

Overall: Drunk best on its own. Session sake. Elegant. Lots of character!

Shizuoka Sake Tasting 17-7: Sanwa Brewery

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Sanwa has received international acclaim since they created the “Garyubai” brew 4 years ago. Thier sake do have to be tasted every year as they are quite original even in this Prefecture.

Sanwa Brewery: Garyubai Junmai
Rice: Gohyakumangoku 90%, Yamada Nishiki 10%.
Rice milled down to 55% (extravagant for junmai)
Alcohol: 16~17 degrees (genshu level)
Dryness: + 2
Acidity: 1.5
Bottled in January 2008

Clarity: very clear

Colour: almost transparent

Aroma: light and dry. Fruity: pineapple, apricot

Body: velvety

Taste: Short tail. Strong and pleasant alcohol backed by junmai tingle. Dry. Pineapple, apricot, almonds.

Overall: Drinks very well with any food.
Varies little with food, occasionally sweetens and turns milder.
A bit “macho” but very pleasant.

Shizuoka Sake Tasting 1-5: Morimoto Brewery

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Morimoto Brewery and its owner/master brewer Mr. Hitoshi Morimoto in Kikugawa City have always been a great favourite of mine for the maverick approach to sake brewing.
The other day, Nagashima Saketen called me again to mention an interesting arrival. I did not hesitate!
I found myself holding a bottle with no label, just a small “tag” and the usual information on a white sticker!
Melinda would love it, considering this a very similar sake to the one I sent her for the first time last year!

Morimoto Brewery Junmai Nama Genshu “From The Tank”

Alcohol: 17.6 degrees
Rice milled down to 65%
Dryness: +6
Acidity: 1.7
Yeast: No 901

Clarity: very clear

Colour: almost transparent

Aroma: Light, fleeting. Pineapple, almonds, melon

Body: velvety

Taste: strong and pleasant alcohol backed up by typical junmai tingle.
Short tail. Fruity: pineapple, bananas, almonds, melon.

Overall: superb sake
Drinks so easily with food.
Comparatively very short tail for genshu.
Inviting for the next sip.
+6 dry taste tastes almost sweet at first to turn dry on palate quickly.

Shizuoka Sake Tasting 16-4: Sugii Brewery

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Sugii Brewery is noted for producing some the most traditional sake in Shizuoka Prefecture. Their “kimoto” and “yamahai” have received national acclaim in many specialized magazines such as the March edition of “DANCYU”.
My good friends at Nagashima Saketen always call me as they have arrived!

The title “Tenbo 13 nen” means the 13th year of Tenbo Era (1843) shortly before the advent of Meiji Era, the year of the Brewery foundation in Fujieda City. A return to its roots and orignal brewing!

Sugii Brewery Yamahai Junmai “Tenbo Ju San Nen”
Rice: Aichi no Kaori: milled down to 78%
Fermented rice: Hitomebore: milled down to 70%
Dryness: +3.5
Acidity: 2.5 (very high for Shizuoka)
Alcohol: 15.2 degrees
Bottled in March 2008

Clarity: very clear

Colour: almost transparent

Aroma: Fruity: dry cherries

Body: velvety

Taste: very dry,fruity: dry cherries. Remiscent of a dry sherry

Overall: A sake for food, especially fried and strong taste food.
2 or 3 days ater opening the bottle the sake will actually turn gentler and sweeter, and “performing” with food.
Unusual and intriguing.

Shizuoka Sake Tasting 9-5: Fujinishiki Brewery

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It has been a long time since I tasted a brew from Fujinishiki Brewery in Shibakawa Cho. When I saw that particular bottle in Matsukaya Department Store, I did not hesitate as for all their production, these are not always easy to find!

Fujinishiki Brewery: Nama Junmai Ginjo Genshu “Juku” (unaltered wahtsoever)
Rice milled down to 55%
Dryness: + 4
Acidity: 1.2
Alcohol: 17~18 degrees
Bottled in February 2008

Clarity: very clear

Colour: almost transparent

Body: velvety

Aroma: discreet. Sesame, biscuits, brown sugar, almonds, walnuts.

Taste: Dry, welcome acidity. Short tail. Almonds, nuts, walnuts,coffee beans, macadamia nuts, bitter chocolate, black sesame.
Turns drier with food.

Overall: Unusual taste for a Shizuoka sake.
Goes well with food, although taste tends to vary quickly from sweet to somewhat acid and dry.
Best enjoyed with food.

Shizuoka Izakaya: Katayurimo

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Please check Shizuoka Gourmet Blog for all the gastronomy in Shizuoka Prefecture!

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Katayurimo is the third member of a triumvirate I have a special liking for in Shizuoka City. I have already introduced the other two, Odakkui and Hana Oto whose “masters” shared dinner with me in the company Mr. Mori at Kodarumatei.
Yukata Mori opened his izakaya (can you guess the connection between names?) in May 2005 and already seems to have acquired quite a following as the place will be full by 21:00.
As he is working on his own with a waiter or waitress to serve a maximum of 9 at the counter and 12 at the tatami tables, do not expect shogun service in spite of his ever-smiling welcome.
It’s all slow food there!

There is plenty to drink, including a fine kome/rice shochu (Acha no Tsubone) by Hana no Mai Brewery in Hamamatsu City who printed a private label for Takayurimo. You will find more shochu, sake and so on to please veryone.

As for local Shizuoka Jizake, it tends to vary almost everyday. I was lucky enough to drink from a bottle of junmai called “Susono Katsurayama Shiro” by Fujinishiki Brewery (Fujinomiya City). I felt the more pleased for it as it was a first!

As Mori-San takes his time carefully preparing your orders, you can usually expect two different kinds of ‘”otooshi/snacks” to come with the first drink order.
I certainly relished the home-made “kuro hanpen/black sardine fish paste” served slightly boiled and cold with a dah of wasabizuke (wasabi pickled in sake white lees), all from Shizuoka Prefecture!

The next snack was “noresore/conger eel whitebait”, usually a specialty from the West of Shizuoka Prefecture, which had to be imported from Fukuoka this time as it is already out of season down here.

Just enough to help me wait for the sashimi of the day!
From top to bottom, left to right:
“Katsuo/bonito” from Shizuoka Prefecture. Soft, tender and juicy!
“Saba/mackerel”. Great freshness, no “fishy” taste whatsoever and plenty of “fat”!
“Houbo/Blue Fin Robin” from Shizuoka Prefecture. A comparatively rare variety in Japan, served in top notch French and Italian restaurants. But sashimi is still best!
“Seguro Iwashi/Seguro sardine”. So fresh and almost sweet. Th e latter morsel was served with orange vinegar from Hamamatsu City instead of the usual shoyu/soy sauce.

I was about to “call it a day” as the night was still very young (I had another “appointment”) when I could not help notice the day’s menu board boasting bamboo shoots cooked in four different ways! I can hear Foodhoe salivating!
I was not the only one to be intrigued as three of my neighbours joined me in querying Mr. Mori about it. The poor (still smiling) gentleman found himself ordered to prepare the bamboo shoots (from Asabata in Shizuoka City) in the four different ways advertised! No way he could escape as we all had de facto agreed to share our orders! Talk about natural unconcerted ganging up!
Incidentally the one I asked for (see above) was the “steak style”: it had been boiled to the right softness beforehand and kept in a cool place. It was first cut to size then cooked and served hot.
You can’t beat a good izakaya when it comes to instant friendship (and hard work for the master!)!

KATAYURIMO
420-0034 Shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Tokiwacho, 1-4-2, Harada Bldg. 2F
Tel. & Fax: 054-221-4175
Business hours: 17:~24:00
Closed on Mondays and every second Sunday