Uncovering Sake’s hidden Stories by Melinda Joe

The present article has been written by my good friend Melinda Joe on behalf of a common friend, namely John Gauntner, the foreign (as to the Japanese) authority on Japanese sake!

Melinda Joe

I like secrets as much as, if not slightly more than, the next guy, so it didn’t take much convincing to get me to read John Gauntner’s new e-book, Sake’s Hidden Stories. Although it wasn’t the juicy, tell-all memoir I hope he’ll pen one day, this collection of essays offers a glimpse of a world that is closed to most of us, particularly non-speakers of Japanese. It tells stories of strong wills, iconoclasts, and errant sons who return home to carry on the work of generations. In our fast-paced modern society, where individualism reigns supreme, the words honor, duty, and tradition seem like anachronistic concepts; yet, these are the very forces that have kept the sake industry alive.

Part of what attracted me, and my fellow nihon-shu bloggers Tim, Etsuko, and Robert-Gilles; to sake was the spirit and enthusiasm of the folks who make it. However, much of the sake literature out there – at least in English – focuses mainly on the products themselves. It’s refreshing to finally find a book that introduces the people behind the brand. A sake insider for more than a decade, Mr. Gauntner is the perfect man for the job. He takes us with him up the gravelly roads and through the cool, dark rooms of centuries-old buildings. Some of the anecdotes describe his first meetings with the brewery owners and staff, and readers feel his surprise and, in many cases, awe.

After meeting the former president of Tairin Brewery in Gifu, Gauntner asks how he was able to control the milling of the rice, which was done at that time on a primitive machine.

The older gentleman answered very simply and humbly, “Well, I listen to it.” You listen to it? Huh?

He walked over to one end of the small machine and lifted up – of all things – a stethoscope that hung neatly over a pipe. “Well, Yeah. I use this, and I listen to it. I have been doing this in this way for so many years that I can easily tell by the sound of the rice spinning inside how much has been milled away.”

Amazing. Most modern seimaiki are automated so the operator has to do nothing, just put in the rice, set the controls, and wait. But for decades this gentleman has been listening to the sound of the rice as it rolled around inside the cylindrical drum, and by using only his senses, polished with years of experience, he can be so accurate that they could make the fine sake Tairin is known for. By using a stethoscope. Simply wild.

The book contains a fair amount of technical information, and, although the first section is devoted to sake basics, true novices may find it difficult to take everything in. The author was a former engineer and his fascination with machinery is evident. For those with a firm foundation of sake knowledge, however, the book is a terrific resource providing in-depth details of production.

Still, everyone can relate to he characters themselves (and, in the sake world, there are plenty of them). When he meets the purple-track-suit-wearing Nakao-san, president and toji of Tsuyu Masamune in Osaka, Gauntner wonders how he learned to make sake.

“Ah, but that’s another long story,” he begins, raising his teacup as if toasting the idea for emphasis. He sets it down on the low table between us before continuing. “You see, I never wanted to be in this business. Originally I was not going to take over the brewery here. I wanted to be a phys ed instructor.”

That’s not the only surprise the kuramoto has in store for him.

In another departure from precedent, Nakao-san has begun to hold the occasional rap concert inside his brewery for the local community rap fans. “It’s kind of tight, but we have barely enough space. The band is down there, people dance up there, on that platform, just in front of the tanks. It’s kinda cool, actually.

These kinds of delightful details make Sake’s Hidden Stories a lot of fun to read, and you’ll definitely feel like an insider by the end of the book. In fact, you may end up itching to take to the sake road yourself. I certainly did!

Must-see tasting websites:
-Sake: Tokyo Through The Drinking Glass, Tokyo Foodcast, Urban Sake, Sake World
-Wine: Palate To Pen
-Beer: Good Beer & Country Boys, Another Pint, Please!
-Japanese Pottery to enjoy your favourite drinks: Yellin Yakimono Gallery

17th Shida Heiya Bishu Story 2009

The Japan Blog List

Please check Shizuoka Gourmet Blog for all the gastronomy in Shizuoka Prefecture!
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Shidaizumi Brewery Sakes

On Wednesday June 3rd, six breweries located in the centre of Shizuoka Prefecture held their 17th Annual Event, Shida Heiya Bishu Story 2009 in Yaizu City at Shofukaku Hotel.

This has become a real event in recent years, for which the 400 seats are sold out months before the event in spite of very few seats reserved for special guests like John Gauntner, the foreign authority on Japanese Sake who has to come all the way form Kamakura.
This time I was spared from making the kampai speech (John took care of that!) and could concentrate on the event on the full, taking my time to say hello to everyone and visit every stand for a hearty taste of some sublime brews!

Aoshima Brewery (Kikuyoi/Fujieda City)

Sugii Brewery (Suginishiki/Fujieda City)

Isojiman Brewery (Yaizu City)

Oomuraya Brewery (Wakatake/Shimada City)

Hatsukame Brewery (Okabe Cho)

Shidaizumi Brewery (Fujieda City)

Took the time to take a pic of a new brand by Oomuraya Brewery to commemorate the new Mount Fuji-Shizuoka Airport in Shimada City!

The hotel served us an excellnet Japanese meal!

Including Sashimi!

And Sushi!

Looking forward to participating to next year’s event!
Before that I will make sure to visit all those breweries again!

Must-see tasting websites:
-Sake: Tokyo Through The Drinking Glass, Tokyo Foodcast, Urban Sake, Sake World
-Wine: Palate To Pen
-Beer: Good Beer & Country Boys, Another Pint, Please!
-Japanese Pottery to enjoy your favourite drinks: Yellin Yakimono Gallery

The Last Bottle 5/3?: Yoshiya Brewery

The Japan Blog List

Please check Shizuoka Gourmet Blog for all the gastronomy in Shizuoka Prefecture!
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As Yoshiya Brewery has officially ceased operations last March, I acquired a few of their bottles for posterity, at least for the sake of his retired Masterbrewer Harushu Nakashima!

Yoshiya Brewery: Chuumasa Junmai Ginjo
Rice milled down to 50% (extravagany)
Alcohol: 15~16 degrees
Dryness: + 4
Acidity: +2 (high for Shizuoka)
Bottled in January 2009

Clarity: Very clear
Colour: Faint golden tinge
Aroma: Fruity: pineapple, banana, vanilla
Body: Velvety
Taste: Well-rounded. Complex. Fruity attack: banana, vanilla, coffee beans.
Elegant. Shortish tail. Faint junmai tingle.
Turns sweeter with food.

Overall: Elegant sake. Fruity wit a great balance.
Calls for another sip.
Multi-faceted. Great on its own at room temperature.
Stands very well to food. Tends to sweeten up with food.

Must-see tasting websites:
-Sake: Tokyo Through The Drinking Glass, Tokyo Foodcast, Urban Sake, Sake World
-Wine: Palate To Pen
-Beer: Good Beer & Country Boys, Another Pint, Please!
-Japanese Pottery to enjoy your favourite drinks: Yellin Yakimono Gallery

JAPAN-I: The new source of information for Visitors in Japan!

A new Website and Magazine called Japan-I was born in January this year and has been fast becoming the perquisite for newcomers and residents alike in Japan!

The free magazine, both available in English and Chinese (180,000 copies) is available in Tokyo at main airports and stations, and will be on stands in other airports soon, including Mount Fuji Shizuoka Airport!

As for the website, it provides information in English, Korean, Mainland Chinese and Taiwan Chinese.

All articles and information are exclusively written by residents in Japan, offering veracity, authenticity and invaluable service for all!

If the tabloid is not available in your region, contact the editors at ad-info@japan-i.jp!

English Sake Brewer Master in Japan: Phillip Harper (3) (Postnotes added!)

The Japan Blog List

Please check Shizuoka Gourmet Blog for all the gastronomy in Shizuoka Prefecture!
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A lot has been written and will be written both here in Japan and abroad on Phillip Harper as he has, with the likes of John Gauntner, Timothy Sullivan and Melinda Joe, established himself as one of the references proving once for all that Japanese sake has at last expanded beyond the confines of this island for the good of all.
It is only a question of time when sake breweries will become a part of life like wine and beer abroad as demonstrated by the five existing branches of large Japanese breweries in the United States employing a full American staff and Moto I, the entirely owned and run American Sake Brewery.

What makes the difference is that Phillip has gone as far as becoming the only foreign sake “toji”/master brewer in a Japanese brewery, namely Ki no Shita Brewery in Kyoto Prefecture!
An Oxford graduate hailing from Cornwall, it took him 18 years of sheer courage and guts to break into the closely guarded world of Japanese sake to gain recognition and earn his master brewer status in 2001.
The media (including The Los Angeles Times) finally take good note of his achievements when he was formally asked by Owner Yoshito Kinoshita to become his new Master Brewer (incidentally Phillip had already held that position in Osaka for two years).

This the third of the three bottles I received from his fans in Tokyo. That particular one was sent to me by Melinda Joe.

Kinoshita Brewery, Tamagawa, Tetsukezu Genshu Junmai Ginjo
Rice: Gohyakumangiku
Rice milled down to: 60%
Alcohol: 18~19 degrees (high as it is a genshu/unaltered alcohol contents)

Clarity: Very clear
Colour: Transparent
Aroma: Fruity, elegant. Strawberries, apricot.
Body: Velvety
Taste: Strong attack backed by alcohol.
Shortish tail. Warms up back of the palate.
Complex. Junmai tingle.
Fruity and dryish: apricots with hints of strawberries, almonds and macadamia nuts.
Elegant.
Dry almonds making a regular comeback.
Holds its own well with food, but revealing different facets, especially strawberries with a dry finish.

Overall: Elegant and easy to drink in spite of high alcohol contents.
For once, similar to Shizuoka-brewed sake.
Combines fruitiness and dryness into a remarkably palatable (eminently drinkable) creation!

PHILLIP’S COMMENTS:

The specs for that sake are:

SMV +4,　Acidity 1.7, Amino Acids 1.5, Alcohol 18.7.

It was brewed with the same organic rice used to make the Konotori kimoto you reviewed the other day – at 60% polish this time.
Though it doesn’t seem to have made an impression on you, that sake isslightly effervescent. Bubbly sake is usually made either by refermenting in the bottle (like Champagne…), or injecting gas into the sake itself. Oh,and a few people do a kind of sparkling wine thing with secondary fermentationin tanks. Tetsukezu bubbles are different, because they derive from the originalfermentation in the mash itself. We trap them in by a secret method that I can’t
reveal, except to say that it is as high-tech as all the other stuff we do at Tamagawa.

Regards, Philip

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Must-see tasting websites:
-Sake: Tokyo Through The Drinking Glass, Tokyo Foodcast, Urban Sake, Sake World
-Wine: Palate To Pen
-Beer: Good Beer & Country Boys, Another Pint, Please!
-Japanese Pottery to enjoy your favourite drinks: Yellin Yakimono Gallery

English Sake Master Brewer: Phillip Harper (3)

The Japan Blog List

Please check Shizuoka Gourmet Blog for all the gastronomy in Shizuoka Prefecture!
————————————————–

A lot has been written and will be written both here in Japan and abroad on Phillip Harper as he has, with the likes of John Gauntner, Timothy Sullivan and Melinda Joe, established himself as one of the references proving once for all that Japanese sake has at last expanded beyond the confines of this island for the good of all.
It is only a question of time when sake breweries will become a part of life like wine and beer abroad as demonstrated by the five existing branches of large Japanese breweries in the United States employing a full American staff and Moto I, the entirely owned and run American Sake Brewery.

What makes the difference is that Phillip has gone as far as becoming the only foreign sake “toji”/master brewer in a Japanese brewery, namely Ki no Shita Brewery in Kyoto Prefecture!
An Oxford graduate hailing from Cornwall, it took him 18 years of sheer courage and guts to break into the closely guarded world of Japanese sake to gain recognition and earn his master brewer status in 2001.
The media (including The Los Angeles Times) finally take good note of his achievements when he was formally asked by Owner Yoshito Kinoshita to become his new Master Brewer (incidentally Phillip had already held that position in Osaka for two years).

This the third of the three bottles I received from his fans in Tokyo. That particular one was sent to me by Melinda Joe.

Kinoshita Brewery, Tamagawa, Tetsukezu Genshu Junmai Ginjo
Rice: Gohyakumangiku
Rice milled down to: 60%
Alcohol: 18~19 degrees (high as it is a genshu/unaltered alcohol contents)

Clarity: Very clear
Colour: Transparent
Aroma: Fruity, elegant. Strawberries, apricot.
Body: Velvety
Taste: Strong attack backed by alcohol.
Shortish tail. Warms up back of the palate.
Complex. Junmai tingle.
Fruity and dryish: apricots with hints of strawberries, almonds and macadamia nuts.
Elegant.
Dry almonds making a regular comeback.
Holds its own well with food, but revealing different facets, especially strawberries with a dry finish.

Overall: Elegant and easy to drink in spite of high alcohol contents.
For once, similar to Shizuoka-brewed sake.
Combines fruitiness and dryness into a remarkably palatable (eminently drinkable) creation!

———————————
Must-see tasting websites:
-Sake: Tokyo Through The Drinking Glass, Tokyo Foodcast, Urban Sake, Sake World
-Wine: Palate To Pen
-Beer: Good Beer & Country Boys, Another Pint, Please!
-Japanese Pottery to enjoy your favourite drinks: Yellin Yakimono Gallery

English Sake Brewer Master in Japan: Phillip Harper (2)

The Japan Blog List

Please check Shizuoka Gourmet Blog for all the gastronomy in Shizuoka Prefecture!
————————————————–

A lot has been written and will be written both here in Japan and abroad on Phillip Harper as he has, with the likes of John Gauntner, Timothy Sullivan and Melinda Joe, established himself as one of the references proving once for all that Japanese sake has at last expanded beyond the confines of this island for the good of all.
It is only a question of time when sake breweries will become a part of life like wine and beer abroad as demonstrated by the five existing branches of large Japanese breweries in the United States employing a full American staff and Moto I, the entirely owned and run American Sake Brewery.

What makes the difference is that Phillip has gone as far as becoming the only foreign sake “toji”/master brewer in a Japanese brewery, namely Ki no Shita Brewery in Kyoto Prefecture!
An Oxford graduate hailing from Cornwall, it took him 18 years of sheer courage and guts to break into the closely guarded world of Japanese sake to gain recognition and earn his master brewer status in 2001.
The media (including The Los Angeles Times) finally take good note of his achievements when he was formally asked by Owner Yoshito Kinoshita to become his new Master Brewer (incidentally Phillip had already held that position in Osaka for two years).

This the second of the three bottles I received from his fans in Tokyo. That particular one was sent to me by Etsuko Nakamura.

Kinoshita Brewery, TIME MACHINE Tamagawa
Dryness: -72
Acidity: 3.2 (very high compared to Shizuoka)
Rice milled down to 88%

Clarity: Slightly smoky (nothing wrong with this as it contains some lees)
Colour: Rich gold
Aroma: Powerful. Fruity. Plums
Body: Velvety
Taste: Powerful. Strong and pleasant attack. Complex. Flowery and fruity: plums and mirabelles. Memories of coffee beans and almonds.
Bitter chocolate peaking out later.
Liquorish with a hint of acidity.

Overall: I’ve been accused of not beingvery lyrical in my comments, whatever my feelings towards a wine or sake in spite of my great love for them. I suppose I’m too old to change! LOL
I waited until the very last glass (note, galss, not cup!) before writing my impressions.
Frankly speaking, an unknowledgeable person could be easily fooled into believing into thinking he is drinking wine! What with the bottle shape, the colour of the sake and the quaint label!
Liquorish, but not tart or overwhelming, I slowly savoured it like Sauternes or sweet white Port.
With plenty of translated explanations, it should hit the palate of some vaunted “tasters” anywhere in the world!

PHILLIP’S NOTES:

“We also do a barking mad sake called Time Machine that is made in the style of the Edo Period. Etsuko took a shine to it last year. We pressed this year’sTime Machine last week: specs are

SMV -70, Acidity 3.4, Amino acids 7.3, Alcohol 16.6.”
(Specs seem to vary with what is written on the labels)

Phillip later commented:
“The discrepancy in the data is because you drank last year’s
(slightly diluted) version: I gave the specs for this year’s
genshu – which, for your information, is already more deeply
coloured than the bottle you drank, only a week after pressing.”

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Must-see tasting websites:
-Sake: Tokyo Through The Drinking Glass, Tokyo Foodcast, Urban Sake, Sake World
-Wine: Palate To Pen
-Beer: Good Beer & Country Boys, Another Pint, Please!
-Japanese Pottery to enjoy your favourite drinks: Yellin Yakimono Gallery

English Sake Brewer Master in Japan: Phillip Harper (1)

The Japan Blog List

Please check Shizuoka Gourmet Blog for all the gastronomy in Shizuoka Prefecture!
————————————————–

A lot has been written and will be written both here in Japan and abroad on Phillip Harper as he has, with the likes of John Gauntner, Timothy Sullivan and Melinda Joe, established himself as one of the references proving once for all that Japanese sake has at last expanded beyond the confines of this island for the good of all.
It is only a question of time when sake breweries will become a part of life like wine and beer abroad as demonstrated by the five existing branches of large Japanese breweries in the United States employing a full American staff and Moto I, the entirely owned and run American Sake Brewery.

What makes the difference is that Phillip has gone as far as becoming the only foreign sake “toji”/master brewer in a Japanese brewery, namely Ki no Shita Brewery in Kyoto Prefecture!
An Oxford graduate hailing from Cornwall, it took him 18 years of sheer courage and guts to break into the closely guarded world of Japanese sake to gain recognition and earn his master brewer status in 2001.
The media (including The Los Angeles Times) finally take good note of his achievements when he was formally asked by Owner Yoshito Kinoshita to become his new Master Brewer (incidentally Phillip had already held that position in Osaka for two years).

I have always been intrigued by this fellow sake-loving foreigner, and when Melinda Joe and Etsuko Nakamura started sending me some of his bottles, I decided it was grand time that I atoned for my ignorance and tasted his sake which has won so many fans in Japan and abroad!

Before I continue with this first of three (and hopefully more) bottles tasting report, I would like to point out that some will not agree with my heavily Shizuoka sake influenced palate and my “wine” tasting methods (just can’t get rid of my Burgundian origin!). I will just invite them to drink, taste and compare notes!

Ki No shita Brewery (kyoto Fu)
Tamagawa (Brand name), Junmai, Nama Genshu (unaltered original pressed sake), Muroka (unfiltered), Kimoto (traditional brewing method)
Rice: Gohyakumangoku
Rice milled down to 77%
Alcohol contents: 19~20 degrees

Clarity: Very clear
Colour: Almost transparent
Aroma: fruity, banana
Body: Velvety
Taste: Strong attack backed by alcohol.
Dry. Complex. Shortish tail. Fruity: Musk Melon. Coffee beans and cherries appearing later.
Hold its own well with food with a light mellow turn.

Overall: A sake devised for food, especially heavy food.
Strong, almost aggressive sake with an uncompromising character.
Turns more complex with the second glass. Elusive at times, but always with a fruity note so remiscent of Musk Melon.
For strong sake officionados!

PHILLIP’S NOTES:

Like all the kimoto and yamahai sakes we do here, this was made without the use of anything but water, rice and koji. We do not
add cultured yeast or anything else to the mash. It is pre-Meiji brewing, and the kimoto under question is precisely the kind of sake that we read about in Meiji Period texts – SMV well into double figures on the plus side, junmai of course, acidity well over two, and comfortably at modern levels of alcohol.

The rice for the kimoto you tasted is organic Gohyakumangoku grown 15 miles away near the haunt of the great white stork (as depicted on the label). The methods are different from standard organic rice farming, as the prime intention is to provide a habitat for these
amazing birds. As you can see from the red sticker, some of the
price goes towards a support organization. This project is all about the
birds, so it would be great if you could give them a plug. FYI, the original artwork is by Sakane Katsuke, an eminent artist who happens to be the boss’s brother-in-law and is also the creator of our excellent Tamagawa logo.

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Must-see tasting websites:
-Sake: Tokyo Through The Drinking Glass, Tokyo Foodcast, Urban Sake, Sake World
-Wine: Palate To Pen
-Beer: Good Beer & Country Boys, Another Pint, Please!
-Japanese Pottery to enjoy your favourite drinks: Yellin Yakimono Gallery

The Last Bottle 5/2?: Yoshiya Brewery

The Japan Blog List

Please check Shizuoka Gourmet Blog for all the gastronomy in Shizuoka Prefecture!
————————————————–

As Yoshiya Brewery has officially ceased operations this month, I acquired a few of their bottles for posterity, at least for the sake of his retired Masterbrewer Harushu Nakashima!

Yoshiya Brewery: Chuuhei, Tokubetsu Honjozo
Rice milled down to 55% (extravagant!)
Alcohol: 16~17 degrees
Dryness: + 17 (very dry!)
Acidity: 1.3
Bottled in December 2009

Clarity: Very clear
Colour: Faint golden tinge
Aroma: Powerful. Fruity: vanilla, bitter chocolate.
Body: Velvety
Taste: Very dry and fruity attack. Pleasant alcohol. Shortish tail. Vanilla, almonds, bitter chocolate. Very dry finish with coffee beans.

Overall: A sake fit for food, especially heavy food.
Very elegant in spite of powerful dryness.
For dry sake lovers!

Must-see tasting websites:
-Sake: Tokyo Through The Drinking Glass, Tokyo Foodcast, Urban Sake, Sake World
-Wine: Palate To Pen
-Beer: Good Beer & Country Boys, Another Pint, Please!
-Japanese Pottery to enjoy your favourite drinks: Yellin Yakimono Gallery

21st Shizuoka Governor Sake Competition Results

There were a few surprises and confirmation at this year’s 21st Governor Sake Competition.
Some breweries did not participate and others were not given the “accololade”.
Such Competitions can be misleading though. The breweries do have to follow some parameters, meaning that adventurous breweries do not get enough recognition. Well, there are enough “politics” already, so I’ll just publish the results:

Ginjo Section:

Governor’s First Prize: Kaiun by Doi Brewery

Gold Medals:
Kokkou by Kokkou Brewery
Isojiman by Isojiman Brewery
Shosetsu by Kansawagawa Brewery
Suginishiki by Sugii Brewery
Kikuyoi by Aoshima Brewery
Eikun by Eikun Brewery
Haginishiki by Haginishiki Brewery
Aoitenka by Yamanaka Brewery
Shusseijyo by Hamamatsu Brewery
Shiraito by Makino Brewery
Sogatsuru Hagi no Kura by Sogatsuru Hagi No Kura Brewery
Masu Ichi by Masu Ichi Brewery
Hana no Mai by Hana no Mai Brewery
Wakatake by Oumuraya Brewery
Takasago by Fuji-Takasago Brewery

Junmai Section:

Governor’s first prize: Suginishiki by Sugii Brewery

Gold Medals:
Kaiun by Doi Brewery
Kokkou by Kokkou Brewery
Shosetsu by Kansawagawa Brewery
Fujinishiki by Fujinishiki Brewery
Hana no Mai by Hana no Mai Brewery
Kikuyoi by Aoshima Brewery
Isojiman by Isojiman Brewery
Haginishiki by Haginishiki Brewery
Senju by Senju Brewery
Takasago by Fuji-Takasago Brewery
Shiraito by Makino Brewery
Shusseijyo by Hamamatsu Brewery
Masu Ichi by Masu Ichi Brewery
Wakatake by Oumuraya Brewery
Shidaizumi by Shidaizumi Brewery
Aoitenka by Yamanaka Brewery

The Japan Blog List

Must-see tasting websites:
-Sake: Tokyo Through The Drinking Glass, Tokyo Foodcast, Urban Sake, Sake World
-Wine: Palate To Pen
-Beer: Good Beer & Country Boys, Another Pint, Please!
Chewy
-Japanese Pottery to enjoy your favourite drinks: Yellin Yakimono Gallery

Shizuoka Sake Tasting 17/8: Sanwa Brewery

The Japan Blog List

Please check Shizuoka Gourmet Blog for all the gastronomy in Shizuoka Prefecture!
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My good friend Mr. Nagashima of Nagashima Liuor Shop came up with an unusual bottle by Sanwa Brewery in Shimizu Ku, Shizuoka City.
It bore a very difficult Japanese name to read, “origarami”, basically meaning “melting”. The bottle was not on display yet.

Sanwa Brewery: Garyuubai Origarami Junmai Ginjo (nigori) Nama Genshu (talk of a long title!)

Rice: Gohyakumangoku (Toyama Prefecture)
Rice milled down to 55%
Dryness: +4
Acidity: 1.4
Alcohol: 16~17 degrees
Bottled in January 2009

Clarity: Very clear when lees are “down”
Color: Slightly smoky white when shaken. Transparent when lees are “down”.
Aroma: Light and dry. Fruity: pineapple
Body: Velvety
Taste: Strong attack backed up by strong alcohol and a lot of acidity due to white lees.
More complex than expected.
Fruity: pineapple, apples.
Long tail. Almonds, vanilla, star anise and coffee beans appearing later.
Acidity lingers in the back of the mouth for a long time.

Overall: An acquired taste, but more pleasant than expected.
Drinks quickly, so must be better than I first thought!

Must-see tasting websites:
-Sake: Tokyo Through The Drinking Glass, Tokyo Foodcast, Urban Sake, Sake World
-Wine: Palate To Pen
-Beer: Good Beer & Country Boys, Another Pint, Please!
-Japanese Pottery to enjoy your favourite drinks: Yellin Yakimono Gallery

Shizuoka Sake Tasting 28/4: Fujimasa Brewery

The Japan Blog List

Please check Shizuoka Gourmet Blog for all the gastronomy in Shizuoka Prefecture!
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I was recently given a bottle by Fujimasa Brewery In Fujinomiya City.
As I’m not one to refuse a bottle, I gladly accepted and drank (tasted) it!

Fujimasa Brewery: Nama Sake
Alcohol: 15~16 degrees
Bottled in May 2008

Clarity: Very clear
Colour: transparent
Aroma: Fruity: banana, pineapple
Body: Velvety
Taste: Solid attack. Shortish tail. Warming up back of the mouth.
Fruity: banana, pineapple, bitter chocolate, coffee beans.
More complex than expected.
Dry finish with almonds and coffee beans.
Stands well to food

Comments: Unexpectedly elegant for a nama futsushu!
Very clean and fruity.
Turns quickly drier.
A sake for food!

Must-see tasting websites:
-Sake: Tokyo Through The Drinking Glass, Tokyo Foodcast, Urban Sake, Sake World
-Wine: Palate To Pen
-Beer: Good Beer & Country Boys, Another Pint, Please!
-Japanese Pottery to enjoy your favourite drinks: Yellin Yakimono Gallery

Shizuoka Sake Tasting 11/11: Hatsukame Brewery

The Japan Blog List

Please check Shizuoka Gourmet Blog for all the gastronomy in Shizuoka Prefecture!
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Hatsukame Brewery in Okabe Cho has a new young Masterbrewer of the Noto School after the retirement of his predecessor, of the Noto School too. Not only this new toji is good, he also happens to be comparatively young and eligible. I shan’t be surprised if he married one of the owner’s three daughters soon!

Hatsukame Brewery: “Kame Maru” Junmai Ginjo Nama (unpasteurized)
Rice: Gohyakumangoku (Toyama Prefecture) 100%
Rice milled down to 50%
Alcohol: 15~16 degrees
Dryness: +0 (sweet by Shizuoka standards)
Acidity: 1.4
Bottled in January 2009

Clarity: Very clear
Colour: Transparent
Aroma: Powerful and sweet. Complex and fruity: banana, vanilla, pineapple, cherries, kumquat.
Body: Velvety
Taste: Well-rounded attack. Shortish tail. Junmai and nama combine into a pleasant tingle in the back of the mouth.
Fruity: bananas, almonds.
Sweetish at first. Ends up with pleasant dry finish.
Stands well to food.

Overall: Typical sake from Hatsukame Brewery.
Sweetish for shizuoka. Very nice and complex.
The type of sake you can drink chilled, or at room temperature with food.
Very elegant in spite of its sweetness.
Calls for another sip!

Must-see tasting websites:
-Sake: Tokyo Through The Drinking Glass, Tokyo Foodcast, Urban Sake, Sake World
-Wine: Palate To Pen
-Beer: Good Beer & Country Boys, Another Pint, Please!
-Japanese Pottery to enjoy your favourite drinks: Yellin Yakimono Gallery

Shizuoka sake Tasting 25/5: Aoshima-Kikuyoi Brewery

The Japan Blog List

Please check Shizuoka Gourmet Blog for all the gastronomy in Shizuoka Prefecture!
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All but for its limited size, Aoshima Brewery has achieved a deserved fame all over Japan as recently demonstrated in the widely read DANCYU magazine. Densaburo (Masterbrewer name) Aoshima has the particularity to speak fluent English as he holds a business management degree from an American University. Interestingly enough, he does not export his sake yet.

Aoshima Brewery: Kikuyoi Ginjo
Rice: Yamada Nishiki Ginga
Rice milled down to 50%
Dryness: +6~+9
Acidity: 1.1~1.4
Yeast: Shizuoka Yeast
Oigawa Southern Alps Spring Water
Rcommended to be drunk at 12 degrees
Bottled in January 2009
No 1101 (Mr. Aoshima numbers all his bottles for tracing back)

Clarity: Very clear
Colour: Transparent
Aroma: Fruity and dry: flowers, pears, vanilla
Body: Velvety
Taste: Light but dry attack. Disappears quickly.
Well-rounded. Complex.
Fruity and flowery. Pineapple, almonds, faint vanilla and pears.
Elegant with a dry deep quick finish backed by almonds and nuts.
Combines well with food. tends to turn drier with food.

Overall: A deep elegant sake!
No wonder it i making so many converts all over Japan!
Stands so well to food without losing any of its character.
Fleeting multi-faceted, typical Shizuoka sake.

Must-see tasting websites:
-Sake: Tokyo Through The Drinking Glass, Tokyo Foodcast, Urban Sake, Sake World
-Wine: Palate To Pen
-Beer: Good Beer & Country Boys, Another Pint, Please!
-Japanese Pottery to enjoy your favourite drinks: Yellin Yakimono Gallery

The Last Bottle 5/1?: Yoshiya Brewery

The Japan Blog List

Please check Shizuoka Gourmet Blog for all the gastronomy in Shizuoka Prefecture!
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As Yoshiya Brewery has officially ceased operations this month, I acquired a few of their bottles for posterity, at least for the sake of his retired Masterbrewer Harushu Nakashima!

Yoshiya Brewery: Abekaido, Tokubetsu Honjozo

Alcohol: 15~16 degrees
Dryness: +5~+8
Acidity: 1.0~1.3
Bottled in February 2009

Clarity: Very clear
Colour: Transparent
Aroma: Very dry. Fruity: banana, bitter chocolate
Body: Velvet~fluid
Taste: Dry and soft. Gentle on the palate. Shortish tail.
Fruity: bananas, pineapple, hints of almonds and oranges.
Turns pleasantly drier with the next sip.
Stays dry and takes a back seat to food with a late appearance by bitter chocolate and coffee beans.

Overall: Pleasant dry sake typical of Yoshiya Brewery.
Probably best enjoyed on its own, but will provide excellent balance to food with its dryness.
For dry sake lovers!

Must-see tasting websites:
-Sake: Tokyo Through The Drinking Glass, Tokyo Foodcast, Urban Sake, Sake World
-Wine: Palate To Pen
-Beer: Good Beer & Country Boys, Another Pint, Please!
-Japanese Pottery to enjoy your favourite drinks: Yellin Yakimono Gallery

February 2009: Shizuoka Breweries News (the good and the not so good)

The Japan Blog List

Please check Shizuoka Gourmet Blog for all the gastronomy in Shizuoka Prefecture!
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Greetings, everyone!

There have been some changes (very) recently in Shizuoka
Prefecture.

In Kakegawa City, the cousin of Haginishiki Brewery owner in Shizuoka City has decided to part ways with Sogatsuru Brewery to fly on his own wings.
The new brewery will be called Hagi no Kura Brewery from April instead of Sogatsuru-Hagi No Kura Brewery. It will also move to a new locale in Kakegawa City.
To be completely independent Hagi no Kura bought Yoshiya Brewery’s license In Shizuoka City. They also acquired all “Chumasa” brand sake, which they will sell under its name. There is a chance that Chumasa brand name will be continued.

As for Yoshiya Brewery, the owner’s “official reason” for ceasing operations is Mr.Nakashima’s, their Nanbu bremaster, physical incapacity to continue brewing. The brewery owner avered that he was not ready to have sake made by anybody else.
Upon investigation, the real reason is that no one in the family is interested in preserving 250 years of history and is more interested in money. The owner is notorious for his love of golf and Mercedes Benz,… His wife has made it secret she did not like being tied by business,… They sold all their equipment to Hagi no Kura Brewery and are now renting their land,…

As for Sogatsuru Nrewery, they have ceased making sake, but are still keeping their license. Maybe someone will be interested,…

Must-see tasting websites:
-Sake: Tokyo Through The Drinking Glass, Tokyo Foodcast, Urban Sake, Sake World
-Wine: Palate To Pen
-Beer: Good Beer & Country Boys, Another Pint, Please!
-Japanese Pottery to enjoy your favourite drinks: Yellin Yakimono Gallery

Shizuoka Sake Tasting 4/9: Kumpai Brewery

The Japan Blog List

Please check Shizuoka Gourmet Blog for all the gastronomy in Shizuoka Prefecture!
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Kumpai Brewery is a minuscule kura run by father and son that nonetheless produces incredibly good sake for such a little volume. Melinda, Etsuko and Tim, who recently visited it will be reminded of a good time she shared together!

Kumpai Brewery: “Abe no Shizuku”, Junmai Ginjo Nama
Rice: Yamada Nishiki 11%, Biyama Nishiki 88%
Rice milled down to 50%
Dryness: -2 (very sweet for Shizuoka)
Alcohol: 15~16 degrees
Bottled in January 2009

Clarity: Very clear
Colour: Golden tinge
Aroma: Fresh and strong. Sweetish. Fruity: licorice, star anise, oranges
Body: Velvety
Taste: Soft attack backed up by pｌeasant alcohol.
Disappears quickly. Soft junmai tingle. Nama characteristics weaker than expected.
Fruity: Star anise, oranges, gum.
Very pleasant and easy to drink. Feminine.
Coffee beans making a late appearance with second sip.

Overall: Comparatively sweet for a Shizuoka sake, although very light, pleasant and fleeting.
Stands up very well to food.
Could definitely be appreciated chilled as an aperitif. or as a digestif at room temperature on its own.
Great with chocolate or blue cheese!

Must-see tasting websites:
-Sake: Tokyo Through The Drinking Glass, Tokyo Foodcast, Urban Sake, Sake World
-Wine: Palate To Pen
-Beer: Good Beer & Country Boys, Another Pint, Please!
-Japanese Pottery to enjoy your favourite drinks: Yellin Yakimono Gallery

Shizuoka Sake Tasting 1/8: Morimoto Brewery

The Japan Blog List

Please check Shizuoka Gourmet Blog for all the gastronomy in Shizuoka Prefecture!
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Mr. Morimoto in Kikugawa City shows his individuality as far as his Brewery is concerned. He actually calls it “Koubou”, that is “Factory”
Despite this appellation, he ptoduces some extraordinary nectars!

Morimoto Brewery: Jizake Kobou, Sayogoromo, Junmai Shiboritate Genshu (unaltered)
Rice milled down to 60%
Alcohol: 17~18 degrees
Dryness: + 4.0
Acidity: 1.9 (high for Shizuoka)
Bottled in January 2009

Clarity: Very clear
Colour:Transparent
Aroma: Powerful. Alcohol. Fruity: pineapple. Memories of licorice.
Body: Velvety
Taste: Softer attack than expected. Well-rounded. Shortish tail. Complex. Fruity: pineapple, vanilla, bananas, bitter chocolate. Junmai tingle mellowing into a dry finish.
Unusual but welcome acidity for a Shizuoka sake.

Overall: A soft, well-rounded sake in spite of high alcohol.
Becoming more complex with the next glass. Need for second and third glass to really appreciate.
Characteristic sake from a maverick brewer!

Must-see tasting websites:
-Sake: Tokyo Through The Drinking Glass, Tokyo Foodcast, Urban Sake, Sake World
-Wine: Palate To Pen
-Beer: Good Beer & Country Boys, Another Pint, Please!
-Japanese Pottery to enjoy your favourite drinks: Yellin Yakimono Gallery

Shizuoka Sake Tasting 19/6: Kokkou Brewery

The Japan Blog List

Please check Shizuoka Gourmet Blog for all the gastronomy in Shizuoka Prefecture!
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It’s been some time since I tasted a brew from Kokkou Brewery in Fukuroi City. Not easy to find, it is nonetheless imperative I taste one as this is the first brewery to use the Shizuoka yeast.

Kokkou Brewery: Junmai Ginjo, Den-Ichiro “Tezukuri/Handmade” Nama (unpasteurized)
Rice: Yamada Nishiki 100%
Rice milled down to 60%
Alcohol: 15~16 degrees
Yeast: Shizuoka HD-1
Dryness: +7
Acidity: 1.2
Amino acids: 1.1
Bottled in January 2009

Clarity: Very clear
Colour: Transparent
Aroma: Soft, fruity: banana, vanilla, faint oranges
Body: Velvety
Taste: Dry attack, Shortish tail. Complex. Fruity: banana, coffee beans, bitter chocolate. Faint junmai tingle.
Elegant, almost feminine in spite of high dryness.
Turns even drier with second sip with an increased appearance by the coffee beans and bitter chocolate.

Overall: A typical sake from Kokkou Brewery.
Soft, discreet, almost feminine.
A sake fitter for a tasting session than for a meal.
Best drunk at room temperature.

Must-see tasting websites:
-Sake: Tokyo Through The Drinking Glass, Tokyo Foodcast, Urban Sake, Sake World
-Wine: Palate To Pen
-Beer: Good Beer & Country Boys, Another Pint, Please!
-Japanese Pottery to enjoy your favourite drinks: Yellin Yakimono Gallery

Shizuoka Sake Tasting 8/12: Sogatsuru-hagi no Kura Brewery

The Japan Blog List

Please check Shizuoka Gourmet Blog for all the gastronomy in Shizuoka Prefecture!

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This is an extraordinary story and sake!
Four years ago, the near defunct Sogatsuru Brewery in Kakegawa City was resurected thanks to a dispute between two cousins at Haginishiki Brewery in Shizuoka City to become Sogatsuru-Hagi no Kura Brewery.
Despite the long lay-off, unsold sake had been carefully stored at under 5 degrees Celsius all the time.
For the pleasure of a very few lucky ones (like me!), the brewery has decided to blend the best three of this true vintage sake (all of the same method and ingredients!) into an extremely rare nectar!
It goes without saying that this sake is in fact the jewel of a bygone era!

Sogatsuru-Hagi no Kura Brewery (Sogatsuru Brewery in fact!): Daiginjo Genshu Blend

Sake blend:
1991, 12%. 1994, 38%. 1996, 50%.

Rice: Yamada Nishiki
Rice milled down to 40%
Alcohol: 17~18 degrees
Blended and bottled in June 2008

Clarity: Very clear (extraordinary quality!)
Colour: light golden tinge (very little colour for such old sake!)
Aroma: Fruity: bitter chocolate, coffee beans, memories of vanilla. Discreet and pleasant.
Body: Velvety
Taste: Very fruity. Complex. Elegant. Extremely pleasant.
Bitter chocolate, coffee beans, vanilla.
Shortish tail.
Mandarines and almonds peeking through with the second sip.
Sweetish with a faint dry finish.

Overall: The word “extraordinary” would be an understatement!
Should be drunk like a great sweet wine or old Port.
As a superlative aperitif? Even better, with the cheese or chocolates at the end of a great meal!
Very limited in quantity unfortunately.
At the same price, no wine could compete!

Must-see tasting websites:
-Sake: Tokyo Through The Drinking Glass, Tokyo Foodcast, Urban Sake, Sake World
-Wine: Palate To Pen
-Beer: Good Beer & Country Boys, Another Pint, Please!
-Japanese Pottery to enjoy your favourite drinks: Yellin Yakimono Gallery